PRINCES OF HOPE

PRINCES OF HOPE

I have traveled across the length and breadth of Pakistan, from the KHUNJERAB pass to the desolate areas of BALOCHISTAN from the BROGHIL pass near the WAKHAN Corridor to the vast sandy beaches of MAKRAN.

The more I travel across the beautiful regions of PAKISTAN, the more I realize how little I know about the vast expanse of the beautiful wilderness, breath taking scenery and eye catching views that exist in abundance, just waiting to be explored.

This time my training assignments took me to Karachi from where over the weekend I made a programme to visit HINGOL NATIONAL PARK. 

As I was making this programme for Baluchistan many people discouraged me from going there citing reasons of law and order situation and the hostility of the local population.

The reason for this caution and fear is obvious as the area beyond coastal highway in Baluchistan does not feature well in the news. Secondly the MAKRAN Coastal highway is located quite far away from the centre of Karachi and at a distance of 250 km and a five hours drive. 

I brushed aside all these apprehensions and worries and made a firm resolve and determination to visit HINGOL NATIONAL PARK and pay my respects to PRINCES OF HOPE.

It was early Sunday morning when I replied to the call of the Moazzin after that I got dressed, had my breakfast in the PNS KARSAZ Mess and waited for my driver to come and pick me up which he did at about 7:00 am.

The morning traffic was light and I made my way across the empty streets of Karachi. I opened my car windows to sniff the aromatic aroma of the early October cool breeze coming from the sea caressing me like a damsel stresses across my cheeks.

My driving took me to the national highway N-25, which can be accessed from HUB in LASBELA district near KARACHI which is the border belt between SINDH and BALUCHISTAN. Crossing HUB you go past the GADANI beach which is famous for its ship breaking industry and you can also go to WANDER and SOMIANI beaches. 

The MAKRAN Coastal Highway starts about 10 kms short of a place called UTHAL a city of LASBELA district with a clear blue sign indicating the direction. 

While N-25 continues due north, the MAKRAN Coastal Highway branches off towards west (left). Much before the village of SANGAL, you will find dirt track leading to CHANDARGUP towards your left. CHANDARGUP is the highest mud volcano in the area and revered by the Hindu’s for their pilgrimage. 

Another important place to visit is a Hindu temple called NANI MANDIR (HINGLAG MATA), which is off the main highway by 6 kms. In order to visit NANI MANDIR you must have a good sturdy 4x4 vehicle as normal cars cannot reach this MANDIR because of the bad road condition. NANI MANDIR is an important Hindu pilgrimage site. The visit or the pilgrimage to this site is also called ‘NANI KA HAJ’.

 

Continuing my journey on the MARAKN Coastal Highway after crossing the HINGOL River, I reached the KUND MALIR Beach. From here the coastal highway moves directly up north entering into the BUZI Pass. Flanked by the mud-mountains, the road starts to turn towards west (left). From here one would first come across the Sphinx and then the PRINCESS OF HOPE.

 

Going further west, the road started to descend towards RUDENI BAND and would finally lead to the ORMARA seaport. The same road continues west towards GWADAR, but that is a long drive ahead. For a day’s journey, one should not go beyond ORMARA, unless arrangements for night stay at ORMARA are made in advance.

All of you must have heard about the beaches of Thailand and Caribbean, but let me assure you that the beaches of MAKRAN Coastal highway are far more fascinating and beautiful than the ones mentioned above. 

These are pristine crystal clear blue water beaches which are in isolation and wilderness and no inhabitation is visible for miles and miles expect for a few fishing villages. 

Furthermore, I found that BALOCHIS, like all Pakistanis are very hospitable by nature. I did not encounter many people on my way to the KUND MALIR beach. On the beach itself, I met many fishermen who were extremely friendly and generously offered me some of their catch which I politely declined.

The PRINCESS OF HOPE is a mud carved naturally occurring statue like structure which bears resemblance to the silhouette of a standing woman. It is found in the HINGOL NATIONAL PARK area and lies on the MAKRAN coastal highway in Baluchistan. The name PRINCESS OF HOPE was given to this structure by Hollywood actress ANGELINA JOLIE on her visit to this area while acting as the UN Ambassador of Goodwill in 2002. 

The coast of MAKRAN has muddy hills with very fast moving winds blowing throughout the year. These fast winds cut through the muddy hills and mountains and can result in a natural rock formations shaped like a standing lady (PRINCESS OF HOPE) or sphinx.

The huge man made Sphinx in Giza, Egypt is viewed by countless tourists from across the globe with awe and praise for those who made it. But there is one natural feature in the remote area of the Makran coastal region of the Balochistan province of Pakistan that resembles much the same as the Egyptian Sphinx and is worth a visit.

Other than the amazingly smooth road, the MAKRAN Coastal Highway bears stunning natural rock formations on both sides and it’s a pleasure to watch these as you drive past.

For those who have seen the American Grand Canyon and the Egyptian Pyramids, you can form a rosy sketch in your mind and compare it with the Makran Coastal Highway beautiful scenery.

A stainless carpet-like road surrounded by mountains with camels sauntering on both sides of the track, the MAKRAN Coastal Highway is sheer joy to drive on. It is not difficult to forget that you’re just a couple of hours away from Karachi. The freshness of air, ozone filled environment, creates the setting for a long enjoyable drive which remains fresh in your memory for times to come.

It is recommended that since the journey is quite long and there are no shops / Khokha after Zero Point (at the start of the Makran Coastal Highway), you should plan your journey in advance be well-equipped with all necessary arrangements specially food, snacks, waters and have your vehicle tank topped up at HUB.

Another peculiar feature of this area is that mobile signals fade out as soon as you reach Zero Point so make a brief stopover at UTHAL and make your necessary calls before leaving that area.

So next time you are in Karachi for business or pleasure make sure to visit  HINGOL NATIONAL PARK and pay your respects to the PRINCES OF HOPE on the MAKRAN Coastal Highway.

Dr. Babur Zahiruddin.