About two decades back the Islamabad Lahore motorway came into existence
which revolutionized the journey from Rawalpindi to Lahore thus brining relief
to the commuters and opening a new chapter in the logistics of Pakistan. The
motorway also brought with it speedy faster and comfortable travel by luxury
coaches which were once considered to be the domain of the aristocrats. These
luxury coaches which ply between Rawalpindi and Lahore have a mid way stop over
at BHERA service area adjacent to the BHERA interchange.
As a reason of this stop over BHERA has become a household name for the
commuters travelling between Rawalpindi and Lahore but many people do not know
the importance of BHERA and the cultural and historical significance of this
sleepy secluded historical town.
BHERA
is located on the mid of Lahore-Islamabad motorway (M2) at the left bank of
river Jhelum near Southern Salt Range in Sargodha district. BHERA is surrounded
by green fields and its importance increased due to the Motorway stop over at BHERA.
During the MUGHAL period, caravans from Central Asia, Kabul, Qandahar and
Peshawar used to cross the river to go to Lahore, Delhi and other parts of
South Asia and Kashmir used to reach BHERA alongside the river.
The
current site of BHERA was built by Sher Shah Suri during his rule in mid of 1500. BHERA
town is divided into small residential area called Mohallah most famous mohallas are Sakhy Pir
Azam Shah Sab who was descendant of Sheikh Baha-ud-Din Zakariya, a pious saint of his time he was famous for his generosity
to people and titled "Sakhy" means Generous. The other mohallas are
Shah Naseeb Deryai, Hakeeman Wala, Imli Wala, Shesh Mehal, Pirachagan, Sethian
wala, Sahnian wala, Khawjgan, Pakistani, Chah Bohrri wala, peeli kothi and
Mohallah Qaziyan wala.
BHERA
is like old Lahore or Peshawar giving a historical background with
its narrow streets and markets telling a tail itself. There are heaps of ruins
of old BHERA and remains of its markets and streets can still be seen on the
other bank of River Jehlum.
According
to the "Ancient Geography of India" by Alexander Cunningham, BHERA was once known as JOBNATHNAGAR.
The
Greeks refer to the Jhelum river as the HYDASPES River where Alexander
fought Porus in Battle of the Hydaspes River in 326 BC. It was at this battle that Alexander's famous
horse Bucephalus was killed.
Sher Shah Suri was the founder of the present day city.
When he visited the old city, he was distressed to see the condition of the
city. He camped at the left bank of river Jehlum, near Qaimnath's hut, and
constructed the first building there. He also constructed the Shahi Jamia
Mosque in the new city, which rivals the Shahi Jamia Mosques of Delhi, Agra and Lahore in beauty. Sher Shah Suri made a road, along which he built
an "Eidgah" and water tanks for the weary travelers.
1300
years ago, many Muslim saints passed by BHERA which became famous in the whole
of Asia. Businessmen and scholars arrived first and then many Afghan and
Central Asian conquerors such as Mahmud Ghazni, Shahab ud Din Ghori, Mughal Babur and Ahmed Shah Abdali attacked or passed through the city
in their campaigns.
BHERA
earned a great status during the Mughal rule. Mughal emperor Zaheer-ud-din Babur mentioned this
town in his famous
book, Tuzk-e-Babri. The town had to face destruction
when Sher Shah Suri
(1540–1545) defeated Humayun and the Pathan forces took their
revenge on the then pro-Mughal town of BHERA.
BHERA
declined in importance due to the gradual shifting of the course of Jhelum
river, due to which the town lost its access to trade as the result of its in
accessible location on the bank of the river.
Captain
DEVAS came to BHERA and with the help of the local architect DHANCHAND KOHLI rebuilt
eight Gates of the city facing different directions. These were named MULTANI Gate,
LAHORI Gate, Kashmiri Gate, Kabuli Gate, PEERANWALA Gate, CHINIOTI Gate, LOHARANWALA
Gate and HAJJI GULAB Gate. Only four gates have survived to date, PEERANWALA Gate,
HAJJI GULAB Gate, LOHARANWALA Gate and Kabuli Gate which too are in a state of
disrepair now. During the reign of MUGHAL emperor Akbar, BHERA regained its
former glory and was one of the 40 cities of MUGHAL India having a royal mint
for minting gold and silver coins.
The
town of BHERA used to have a boundary wall and eight gates. Unfortunately,
there is no official or public awareness about this great city of the past.
New
City BHERA is now on a road to progress and prosperity and many settlements have
sprung up at the junction of BHERA-Bhalwal Road and BHERA Jhawarian Road.
Apart
from the above history and geography which can be easily obtained from the net,
there is a very peculiar geographical landmark of BHERA which very few people
know that this is the only city in Pakistan or rather in the world that the
town square or the main central road intersection is surrounded on all four
sides by graveyards thus it can be called the graveyard square and once in
NEELAM GHAR this question was also asked which place in Pakistan has graveyards
on all four corners of the road.
A
beautiful mosque can also be seen on the left of the graveyard square as you
come from the motorway towards BHERA but the history relating to the construction
of the mosque is not clear and shrouded in mystery as some attribute it to SHER
SHAH SURI and some to the MUGHALS.
About
6 kilometers away is the town of MIANI which is also known as LOON MIANI because
of the processing of salts from the nearby salt mines which also boost of eight
darwaza’s but only three are in presentable condition the rest being subjected
to the norms of vandalism and pilferage for which we take pride as a Nation.
The
ministry of tourism cultural and archeology which have gone into a deep sleep
have to be awaken from this hibernation and slumber before these cultural
heritage becomes oblivion because of apathy and neglect.
Dr. Babur Zahiruddin.