TRIP TO DUDIPATSAR JHEEL (KAGHAN / NARAN)
My trek to Dudipatsar Lake in
September 2016, was a bit adventurous as I adopted a shorter and different
route which my son USMAN RAZA ALIM suggested
to take via BISSIAN on our last trip to SKURDU in May 2016.
First to LOWER TOPA to BHURBHAN to KOHALA Bridge into Azad Kashmir
onwards to MUZAFARABAD to GARHI HABIB ULLAH and finally to BISSIAN Chowk.
The road to MUZZAFARABAD is very
good, but at DOMAIL you head towards GHARI HABIB ULLAH which is quite an incline
and took us about one & half hours to reach.
The road to BISSIAN is 25 kms,
is a shingled road under construction and our speed was check mated by oncoming
traffic and bad conditions of the road which terminated at BALAKOT and this
route is 95 kms long and the journey time is three hours from Murree.
So there was a saving of time
and avoiding the rush of Hassanabdal to Balakot which has bumper to bumper
traffic during the tourist season.
At Naran the
weather became cold and chilly so we had to don our woolies and then started
for BATAKUNDI for night stay at FWO Engineers Mess.
My army training
and my daily routine for the past 35 years has an inbuilt alarm clock in my
subconscious that wakes me up early and on time but this was not so with my other
participants who were late in getting up on 16th September 2016.
From BATAKUNDI we
moved to JHALKHAD and arrived in BASEL at about 12.30 pm much to my
astonishment and dismay BASEL town was deserted, to make things worse was that
the overhead make shift cable car called DOLI in local language had been
dismantled and there was no option but to cross the River let of KUNHAR on foot
at a shallow point and wade through waist deep extremely cold water with an
expanse of 30 feet.
We were
following the left side of the KUNHAR River and as we went forward the trek
became difficult and laborious.
The shadows of
the evening were falling and becoming dark somehow or the other I managed to
make it to the first ridge by 4.30 pm and started the small descent to GALMA, a
small hamlet having a few scattered houses where the seasonal inmates
comprising of the KHANA BADOOSH (gypsies) camp during the summer for grazing.
17th September Morning I went around the
village and got hold of two horses on hire, on one we put all our back packs
and cooking rations while the other horse was empty in case some member feels
tired and exhausted.
At 9: 00 am we started our trek again to DUDIPATSAR lake
along the river but this was relatively easy as compared to the trek last
evening but my happiness did not last long as we were confronted with glaciers
which we had to traverse on an incline steep climb.
Those of us who were
wearing joggers had difficulty in climbing as their shoes were slippery and had
to be helped with hand tow and snow sticks were provided to them for leverage.
After crossing MULLAH
KI BASTI we came across another glacier which took us about an hour and a half
to get to the other side which was again a smooth trek for 30 minutes after
which we came across muddy quagmire where some of the participants were bogged
knee down and ropes were provided so that they could leverage on it and come
out of the quick sand entanglement conditions and finally reached DUDIPATSAR
LAKE.
DUDIPATSAR Lake
or Dudipat Lake is encircled by snow clad peaks and lies in the extreme
north of the Kaghan Valley. The word "dudi" means white, "pat"
means mountains and "sar" means lake. This name has been given
to the lake because of the white color of snow on the surrounding peaks. In
summer the water of the lake reflects like a mirror. The word "sar"
is used with the name of each lake in the area, translating as 'lake.'
The lake's water is beautiful greenish blue hue and very cold, at an
elevation of 3,800 metres (12,500 ft). The surrounding mountains, with
snow patches in the shady dales, average
around 4,800 metres 15,700 ft. Some of the park's fauna includes the snow leopard,
black bear, marmot, weasel, lynx, leopard, Himalayan snow cock, and snow partridge.
The wild life I saw were the marmots (Weasels) who were
playing with each other and gave out a shrill call from distance when they saw us
and then disappeared in to their burrows when we came near.
This is one of the few clear pristine lakes which still have
not been spoilt by the intrusion of HOMOSAPIENS like the deplorable conditions of
SAIF UL MALOOQ and LULUSAR Lake.
How can I describe this beautiful lake I may be running
short of words to pen the exact picture of this MONALISA of nature.
The morning sun reflects into the crystal clear water
giving the image of a mirror where you can see your own reflection which
becomes even more augmented and magnified by the calmness and depth of the
water.
We spent about one hour at the lake site and enjoyed the
cool breeze blowing and the sight of the mountains when I called everyone to
attention, from the state of trance in which they were mesmerized.
It was time to make our way back to MULLAH KI BASTI but
without any indication or warning it started raining cats and dogs and we have
to don rain coats and to protect our rations from getting wet.
Since it had rained recently crossing the muddy quick
sand became even more difficult but somehow or the other with the help of the
ropes and the guide we made it to the other side and reached the left side of
the river where we picked up the trail to MULLAH KI BASTI.
The night at MULLAH KI BASTI we found better tents,
sleeping arrangements a hot supper of Dall Roti which we gulped down quickly
and off course my delicacy and weakness of cardamom tea was the last call of
the evening before we went to sleep at about 9 O Clock.
18th September 2016, quick breakfast at MULLAH
KI BASTI, started back for GALMA village which we reached at about 11.30 pm
where we said good bye to the horses and our guide.
We reached BASEL and after crossing the KUNHAR river made
it where our vehicles were parked and started our way back to our Mess in BATAKUNDI
which we reached at about 3 O’ Clock where I changed in to fresh clothes and
went for a rest.
In the evening I was awoken by teammates that they had
bought a big lamb and were going to have BBQ and bon fire to make merry.
As I look back over my 50 years of experience as a
Mountaineer, trekker and ecologist and having traveled to all the nook and
corners of Pakistan there are still two adventurous treks which have eluded me
in my career.
That is Rush Lake & Astola Island which I hope to
complete ASP before I become too old to trek and climb mountains.
DR. BABUR ZAHIRUDDIN